It could only happen in Penzance, of course.
You’re walking down Chapel Street on a winter’s evening, minding your own business, when a seven-foot creature with a cow’s skull for a head skips past you.
Followed by a boisterous parade of masked revellers, lit up by flaming torches.
‘Is this a dream?’ you ask. ‘Or the after-effects of that absinthe cocktail?’ (Penzance pubs and bars have some hardcore mixologists, after all.)
Actually, you just witnessed Montol, the most eccentric little festival in the British Isles and a highlight of the Penzance winter calendar.
Here’s a guide.
What is Montol?
An annual celebration in Penzance that culminates on the winter solstice on 21 December, the longest night of the year. Broadly, Montol is about joining together to defeat darkness and celebrate the return of light. It celebrates the midwinter solstice traditions in Cornwall of the past, as well as customs associated with the old Christmas.
What does it involve?
Traditionally, from 2.30pm on 21 December, fire performers, ‘obby ‘osses (those striking skeletal creatures), coddiwomplers (town criers) and masked ‘guise’ revellers parade and dance through the centre of town.
A ‘Progress of Sun’ procession, led by a ‘Lord of Misrule’, leads to a grand Midwinter Fire event at Princess May Recreation Ground, which features traditional music and dancing. Later in the evening, the revellers throw a Cornish Yule log (the ‘Mock’) on the fire. More on that in a minute.
It sounds like a fevered dream
Many a reveller has woken up and asked: did THAT really happen last night. With Montol’s strange beasts, torch flames licking hidden faces, rhythmic drums and dancing, it’s dripping with Celtic atmosphere.
But it’s also a very inclusive and friendly event. And, if you have young kids or like to settle in before nighttime, there are plenty of daytime activities too.
Like what?
The celebrations occur over six days and there are usually loads of things to do and see during the week, including mask-and lantern-making workshops, strolling bands, carol services, storytelling and Mummers’ plays. If you do stay up, there’s typically late-night shopping and lots of opportunities to enjoy our town’s famous dining, eating and drinking scene. Keep an eye on social media – in particular Love Penzance’s social feed – for details.
Tell me more about what happens on the recreation ground
What happens on the rec stays on the rec.
Just kidding…
One of the highlights and focal points of the evening is a very old Cornish tradition called the Chalking of the Mock (yule log). A chosen member of the public marks the Mock with a stick man, which may represent Old Father Time, the birth of Christ or even the Roman festival of Saturnalia. This is then thrown on the fire as a symbol of the old year and the birth of the new.
Is this an ancient festival, or something new?
That’s an interesting question.
There’s no historical basis for the processions, which began in 2007, or the Lord of Misrule in Penzance. However, guise dancing in our town is mentioned in fascinating and florid detail by Victorian author William Bottrell, who refers to events around and after 1700 featuring ‘antique finery’, ‘cocked hats’ and ‘plumes’, ‘streamers’ and ‘ribbons’. Meanwhile, Celtic festivals celebrating the winter solstice have occurred for hundreds or even thousands of years.
Perhaps it’s best to see Montol as a ragged patchwork of ancient and modern, the past and present meeting in a whirling, flaming dance across time.
That sounds like a bad version of Mr Tambourine Man by Bob Dylan
Sorry, we got carried away, but it’s because we truly love Montol. It’s just a wonderful Penzance event and, like its sister festival Golowan, reflects the exhilarating bohemian and artistic character of our town.
Okay, I’m in – how do I get involved?
Firstly, head on over to the Montol website. It provides a full itinerary of events during the festival, including a detailed rundown of where to be and when on the 21st. However, do also keep your eyes on social – in particular the Love Penzance Facebook feed – for up-to-date information on what’s happening.
Finally, I’m loving the costumes. What’s the dress code?
- Mock formal – ‘fine’ clothes such as top hats and bow ties, to ‘ridicule your betters’
- Rags and ribbons – tattered, ornate and colourful gear
- Animal imagery – dressing with animal masks or horns
- Cross dressing – try on a new identity and see how it fits
- Hiding the face – with sequins or masks (but not horror masks or super hero masks: it’s about an old timey feel)
You’ll find much more about the dressing-up traditions, itinerary and history of Montol on the website. And remember, keep your eyes out on Love Penzance social for more details in the run-up to the event.
Finally, if you’d like to dive deeper into Penzance’s traditions and take part in more of our events, see our in-depth post ‘The Curious and Magical World of Penzance Festivals’.
Photos: © Greg Martin / Cornwall Live